
Monday March 23rd (a might cold!)
We are off to the Christchurch Antarctic Experience today, it is very highly rated and will give Baggage the chance of riding on a Hagglund, an all terrain vehicle.
We are not in a great rush, so leave the house just after 10am.
The arctic centre is out by the airport, I have driven the road out to there from our house on Mt. Pleasant so many times that I feel I could do it blindfolded.
As soon as we arrive at the arctic centre we take our Hagglund ride, one is leaving just as we are buying our ticket. The ride involves a short obstacle course with some very steep inclines, a small crevice to cross and a drop through a small pond to demonstrate the amphibious capabilities of the vehicle. It is great and as soon as we get out Baggage wants to go again.
We enjoy the Antarctic centre, you start with a visit to an recreation of Scott Base in the Antarctic where you go through a full twelve months experiences in 7 minutes. We then experience a snow storm with a wind chill of minus 18 in a cold room with actual snow covering the floor and then a virtual visit to the Antarctic including a sweeping flight over the ice in a helicopter, not bad as we never actually leave Christchurch.
We have a packed lunch outside the centre then return inside for the penguin feeding session, we have a bit of time before it begins so decide to go for another Hagglund ride, this time we manage to sit in the front cab with the driver, it is a totally different experience.
Penguin feeding happens three times a day and the penguins here are all little penguins, the same as we saw on Phillip Island, however these have all been rescued from the wild where they had experienced some form of trauma and are all unlikely to ever return to the wild again. In fact some have become so domesticated that they will sit on their handler’s lap whilst receiving their food.
After leaving the Antarctic centre we go for a short drive to New Brighton where we take a walk along the beach and onto the pier before we stop in a café for a cup of coffee and Danny and Baggage each have a caramel slice. Baggage manages a bit of her’s but she finds it too sickly so I have to finish it off for her, what a shame!
We head back to the house for something to eat, tonight Baggage is off to the local guides so we decide to go for a drink whilst she is out and head back to the Thirsty Mariner. Tonight I sample the Monteith’s Dark Ale, a heavy pint, not dissimilar from a Murphy’s, though not quite the same level of head.
Again Baggage has a really good experience at Guides, they have laid on a special New Zealand night for her as we had managed to arrange her visit before we left the UK and they all make her feel very welcome. She comes out laden with goodies, a collection of badges, a picture drawn for her by one of the guides, a flower made from a dried tree leaf again made by one of the Guides and three packets of Guide biscuits that the troop sell at events to raise funds.
When we get back to the house Baggage is not too quick to bed, she ends up going at after 10pm which in turn leads to the rest of us having a later night than we have been in order for us to get a bit of adult time.
Tuesday 24th March (Boy’s day out)
The plan for today was for us all to go to Akaroa but Baggage really does not want to, she is very tired and claims not to be feeling too well. We accept her feelings as genuine when she accepts that if she does not go out she will be staying in to do school work and not simply sitting on the computer.
Lisa decides the best bet is for her and Baggage to stay in leaving Danny and I to continue on to Akoroa as planned.
The drive to Akaroa is great, we decide to take the route through the Lytelton tunnel and then over the pass through the mountains rather than the far flatter route on the main road from Christchurch. We just have to make a couple of stops along the way for Photos.
On route as we pass by Barry’s Bay we stop at the local cheese making establishment for a cheese tasting, the cheese is really good and we end up buying a couple of slices to take back for the girls, one of a blue cheese and one a Maasdam. I also manage to eat a reasonable amount of the blue cheese whilst at the tasting!
We have a walk around Akaroa and sit in a waterfront café for a beer before having our picnic lunch, also at the water’s edge. I enjoy a half of Monteith’s Red and Danny a half of Monteith’s Gold. Whilst we are eating our lunch I am surprised when a cement truck pulls up next to us and the driver proceeds to wash out his tank and deposit the cement residue on the ground at the edge of the car park where it joins the beach. Upon inspection we can see evidence of this activity having been carried out along the edge of the car park, there is also evidence of cement mixed in with the sand at the edge of the beach. Possibly this is a sanctioned activity as it could be viewed as strengthening the tidal defences, however I would be surprised if that is the case.
After lunch we decide to drive further along the coast to see what we can find, we go about as far as we can before the road is signposted up as ‘No Exit’ though just before we get to it’s end we come across a small Mauri community, complete with the communal meeting hall and two Mauri fishermen cleaning eels they have caught and hanging them out to dry in what looks like a smoking house. It is really good to see this side of New Zealand in a way that is probably as it has been for hundreds of years.
We decide to take the low land road back to Christchurch and on the way stop for a wine tasting at Rosendale winery on the way back. The wine is really good and the proprietor would have let us taste as much as we wanted, it is a shame I was driving and therefore had to restrict the number of bottles I sampled. Danny and I both agreed the Pinot Noir from Marlborough was the best of the wines we tasted so I bought a bottle for us to enjoy with our cheese later.
As we enter Christchurch we stop off at Woolworths to get the ingredients for tonight’s dinner, we settle on chicken, pasta and a cheese sauce. We also take the opportunity to stock up on beer, I opt for a six pack of Mac’s White Beer and Danny goes for a six pack of Monteith’s Gold as he enjoyed it so much at lunchtime.
We spend the evening in, Baggage gets an early night and I catch up on producing Baggage videos ready to put on the website.
Wednesday 25th March (Whale watch)

Today we are off to do something I have wanted to do since we decided to come to New Zealand, Whale watching. Until we arrived in Christchurch I thought we were not going to be able to achieve this as we were here at the wrong time of the year, however on arriving here we found out that up the coast a bit (3 hours to be precise) at Kaikoura you can see sperm whales all year round as they feed in a deep sea canyon just off the shore and there are some permanently resident in the area.
The drive up is pretty uneventful, the scenery worth noting at some points but in the main the drive up the east coast from Christchurch is pretty flat. On this drive we encounter a single lane bridge for the first time, we will find many of these as we travel further afield but they are a strange concept on what is in fact one of the major roads on South Island. One direction has precedence the other has to give way and the single carriageway of the bridge is shared by both.
We arrive in Kaikora just after noon, our Whale Watch sailing is booked for 3:30 but I manage to change it to 1:15 as we are there so early.
We have picked a great day for it, the sky is clear blue and the temperature on the car thermometer is showing at above 20c.
The boat we go out on is a twin hull boat, specifically built for Whale Watch in this bay and it is pretty swift with plenty of viewing space on the deck and cabin roof. The way it works is the boat sails out to the area the whales were last seen in and then the captain locates the area they are currently in by listening under the water. Whale Watch Kaikora has four boats on the water and also a helicopter, there is also a Whale Watch by plane operating in the same area and they all work together to direct each other to whale sightings on the water. When a whale is seen the boats will approach from behind so as to be visible to the whale and then you get the opportunity to witness the whale on the top of the water and then the impressive dive with raising of its tail as it sets off for another deep feed.
We manage to see four whales on the surface and all four of them dive, the dive is spectacular. We also see a variety of Albatross and a New Zealand Fur seal, the latter is on the rocks where we return to in the boat at the end of our sailing.
Before we head back for Christchurch we have Fish and Chips in a local café, the food is good though maybe the fat the chips were cooked in had been a little overused. We then pick up an ice cream to round the meal off nicely.
On the way back to Christchurch at one point we note the temperature is reading 26c, extremely warm for this time of year.
We get back to Christchurch for 8:30 and again ensure Baggage does not have an extremely late night, in fact none of us do, as we are all pretty tired. Before going to bed however I have the last bottle of Mac’s Summer Ale from the six pack I bought Danny when we first arrived, a nice refreshing beer with a hint of fruit.
Thursday 26th March (preparing to move on)
Today we do not have a lot planned, we have to pack up again and move out. These days always come around too quick.
We have decided to come back here though after we leave Te Anau, we fly out of Christchurch on the 10th April so decided we would spend our last few nights in South Island back at the Nest on Mt. Pleasant. As a result of this we ask Kathryn if we can leave a couple of cases, they will contain things that we do not need to take with us and it will be good not to have them filling up the back of the car. She is pleased to be of assistance and it is much appreciated. It does however mean that packing will take a little longer than usual, now we have to divide our cases and decide what we will not require for the next 12 days, also what Danny can take back with him to the UK for us.
We spend most of the day, packing, chilling, giving Baggage school work to do and catching up with things on the Internet.
Baggage and I also catch up with recording a couple of diary entries for the website, though this does cause her to lose the plot at first as it means she has to get off the computer and that seems to be an issue to her at times.
We go back out to Speight’s Ale House for dinner, this is the third time we have eaten here in a week but the food is really good and the pricing reasonable, also the beer is really good, what more can you ask.
After dinner Danny and I go out to the cinema to see Watchmen, it is not suitable for Baggage and not Lisa’s cup of tea so we go on our own. Danny has read the comic book the film is based on I have not, consequently he has certain expectation, I have none. I love the film for what it is, a really good story, some great cinematography and a kick ‘ass soundtrack, Danny enjoys it but feels in places it lets the book down.
When we get back to the house we have a beer and then turn in for the night.
Whilst we are out Lisa has pulled her back setting the fire, I do hope it does not turn into much more than a niggle as she was almost incapacitated for three months about eighteen months ago when she pulled a ligament picking up a branch when I was felling an old fruit tree, now would not be a good time for a repeat performance.
The weather for the last three days has been just great, we could not have hoped for better. The sun has been out and temperatures have been well up in the afternoon. I am not really sure why Lisa felt the need to light the fire when we were out, though she is always much colder than the rest of us.
Friday 27th March (some stunning scenery, though very wet)
As we had done most of the packing yesterday we are able to get away by just after 9am, just as well we have a six hour drive ahead of us and intend to be making a few stops along the way.
At first the drive is not a lot different from that we experienced as we drove up the coast the other day, the landscape is pretty flat and uninspiring. This soon changes. As we rise up the Southern Alps towards Arthur’s Pass the outlook is spectacular, at this point it is still dry so we make plenty of stops for photos. As we near Arthur’s Pass however we rise up into the mist and a torrential blanket of rain, by the time we reach the mountain top village it is hammering down relentlessly.
We stop at Arthur’s pass for lunch and I am the only person who ventures far from the car as I want to take a couple of photos of the railway station and get soaked for the privilege.
The rain then stays with us all the way down out of the mountains and all the rest of the journey until we reach Fox Glacier, in fact except for a couple of short let ups it rains until we are eating our dinner when clear skies roll in and the sunset behind them is a true sight to behold.
We do not make too many stops for photos on our way out of the pass, it is just too wet. The scenery however is spectacular, the almost barren mountain slopes to the east of the range are replaced with lush green slopes to the west, probably something to do with the amount of rain that falls here!
We stop briefly at Rose, a gold mining town, for a coffee, apart from that we push on to Fox Glacier and eventually arrive here at 5pm.
Our hotel (Scenic Circle) is clean but basic, we are all in a family room which is fine as we are only here for a couple of nights and only really in the room to sleep, but if we were here any longer really would not work.
For dinner we go out to a local café, Baggage records a diary entry whilst we are waiting for our food and I have to go and get my camera when the rain finally lifts and the sun comes through from the west illuminating the mountains in a stunning orange glow. I am in fact so busy taking photos my dinner is on the table for a good five minutes before I return for it.
After dinner we return to the hotel, the sky is now completely clear, we really do hope it stays like this for our glacier walk tomorrow.
Lisa, Baggage and Danny play monopoly express whilst I catch up on my blog entries and now as I am finishing this I will get ready for bed.
